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The best rust protection is to wash your car regularily including the underbody and fill in every single paint chip with a $12ish paint pen at your dealer.

If you live in most of Canada though where your car will be caked in dirt half the year and you don't want to bother cleaning it because there's no point, I'd say the electronic rust inhibitor is your best line of defense.

Congratulations on your car! Do post pictures, we want to see!
 

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Congrats on the new Car! Never heard o the electronic rust inhibitor, but I would do something or clean the thing as often as you can. My 99 Acura is rusting now, going to a body shop to have it fixed up. All I have ever done is wash the car almost once a week for the first few years, never had any rust, but now it sits most of the year with little care (my fault for neglecting it) I put 3000 km on it last year. I would say regular cleaning gets the job done.
 

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R.I.P. Marc - 01/29/2022
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Sonal, it would depend upon the amount of salt that is used on your roads. Here in St.John's, where we use more salt than any other place in Canada ( a fact I am not proud to report), this sort of protection is just common sense. However, I agree that to clean one's car is effective.
 

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Sonal, it would depend upon the amount of salt that is used on your roads. Here in St.John's, where we use more salt than any other place in Canada ( a fact I am not proud to report), this sort of protection is just common sense. However, I agree that to clean one's car is effective.
And I thought that honour(?) went to Nova Scotia with its two salt mines going full tilt. However Dr. G in St. John’s the run off doesn’t have far for the salt to return to its natural environment.;)

Sonal I hear that parking your car where hay is stored is an excellent rust inhibitor. Apparently the hay absorbs the moisture. My guess this is not an effective recommendation for you though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Sonal I hear that parking your car where hay is stored is an excellent rust inhibitor. Apparently the hay absorbs the moisture. My guess this is not an effective recommendation for you though.
Somehow, I think the condo board would be rather less than impressed if I filled my spot in the garage with hay.... ;)
 

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R.I.P. Marc - 01/29/2022
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BigDL, when I first came to live in St.John's, I watched plows and dump trucks building a mountain near the harbor front. When I asked what they were doing, I was told that it was the supply of road salt for the coming winter. Having come here from five years in Georgia, and having grown up in New York City, salt on the roads were not a factor. 30 years later, there has been enough salt dumped on the roads here in the greater St.John's area to cover up PEI.
 

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At long last, a 2008 Nissan Versa SL Hatchback.

I turned down the rust protection/extended warranty at the dealership, but I am curious about aftermarket rust protection. Worth it? Not worth it? Recommendations?

Thanks. Will post pics when the car is officially mine.
Rust protection is worth it. I would have taken it, for the sheer fact that you live in southern Ontario which uses tonnes of salt each winter. Salt is the killer of cars.

Since you didn't get it done, I'd recommend going to Krown Rust Proofing and getting it sprayed each year in the late fall.

Oh, and congrats on the newly acquired mobility...:)
 

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The rust protection they sell you in dealerships is useless. Same thing with "paint sealant" (whatever that is) and scotchguarding. They are all simply high-margin upsells that pad the profit for the dealership.

The one aftermarket rust treatment that I do think works is oil spray.

BTW, when you pick up the car, go over it with a fine-toothed comb. Insist on test driving it before signing off and taking possession. If there is anything wrong or missing or damaged, refuse delivery. Most people are so excited about picking up a new car, they will overlook problems. The dealers know this and take advantage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks everyone.

I looked at the Krown website, and the cost of doing it aftermarket with them is less than 1/10 what the dealership was asking. And there's a Krown dealer around the corner from me, so I think it'll be worthwhile for me to get that done soon after my car is delivered.

I am horrifically bad at keeping my car washed, but at least this will give my engine a bit of protection.
 

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Agreed with most others who chimed in above; get the vehicle rust-proofed (better safe than sorry). I haven't rust-proofed my Mazda3 yet (2.5 years I've owned it), but I haven't had any problems with rust thus far.

In regards to keeping the car clean, it does more than just prevent body rust and other damage, but it also prevents the paint from aging, fading, and losing its factory-original shine (which is much more difficult to regain after its lost versus preventing it from aging/fading to begin with). You'd be surprised how old a brand-new car can look if its body is not regularly maintained. If you don't have the time or the want to clean the car yourself, you can always hire a detailer to wash and wax the car 2-3 times a year for paint protection (typically $40-$70 job, depending on the detailer) and do the 'full over' once a year to return your car to a state that looks better (literally) than when you first picked it up (typically $120-$250; usually a 5-8 hour job). If a steady body maintenance routine is followed, your Versa is likely to look brand-new in 4-5 years from now.

Nice purchase. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I'll confess now, and say that in my 7 years of owning my current car, I have never washed it. In fact, I'm not quite sure how one uses a car wash.... every time I thought to myself that perhaps I should at last bring it to a car wash and figure that whole bit out, it would rain, or some snow on it would melt, and my car would look pretty good again.

Mind you, the new car is dark blue and the old car was beige. I might not be able to get away with depending on rain for much longer.
 

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Do they really use that much salt out east? In Vancouver we use it on nights when temperatures dip low enough for ice to form because most Vancouverites don't bother putting snow tires on their car in the winter. It seems as long as you don't own a Honda and you wash your car regularily it's good to go. My 91 does not have a cm^2 of rust. My new VW City Jetta will have a 12 year warranty against rust because it uses fully galvanized steel, though I've seen galvanized ducts on rooftops succumb to rust problems after a few years.

Hey you still haven't posted photos yet, we really want to see! :D The Versa's gotta be the nicest small car out there comfort and quality wise, and 6 speed manual tranny or CVT to boot. I just never grew too fond with the car.
 

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I have to admit, I'm a bit surprised by the number of people whom are misinformed when it comes to rain and rain helping to 'clean' the car. Contrary to such belief, rain does not clean cars, but rather makes them even dirtier. It may wipe down dust and some loose dirt, but most dirt that cakes to cars will not come off unless it's scrubbed off, and rain won't make that cut. (Clean your car, then take it around the block on a rainy day. Let it dry overnight, then compare your car then to how it looked after your had cleaned it - it will be very dirty in comparison, especially the wheels.)

Whenever I wash the car, I always wash it based on estimated weather forecasts to ensure that on the day I wash it, the next 3-5 days should be relatively nice, without rain or snow, to make sure I'm not completely wasting my time and so the car looks clean for at least a few days at a time. But I'm fairly anal when it comes to my property. ;)
 

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In Alberta they use sand... rather than melting ice and causing harm to the environment, throw sand on the ice and create some traction. Sure cars look dirty but rather sand than salt get into the environment. Wonder why the rest of the country hasn't followed suit...
 
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