Cinema Display Troubleshooting/Parts - Page 2

Freakin · Apr 20th, 2009, 06:48 PM

It was surprisingly easy to open up the case. It took me a while to wrap my head around it, but once it was open, it was quite simple.

I'll give you a quick step-by-step on it.
-First of all, disconnect everything....obvious, yes, but worth mentioning
-Optional step would be to remove the stand. I found it easier to keep it on, but you might want to keep it flat on a table while you work. If so, it's two 3mm allen bolts on either side where it meets the monitor.
-Next, remove the plastic side panels. I used a small plastic spatula to keep from scratching everything. Start from the top and slowly pull it away. It's just glue holding them on. Be careful with the buttons at the bottom. There's a board in there and a connection that you'll have to remove before pulling it away.
-Remove the metal side plates on either side. They're just screwed in, just watch that you don't strip them.
-Now you're ready to open the case up. It opens from the bottom, spreads apart, and then the panel slips out of there. There is a latch on both sides at the bottom, near the seam, that need to be pulled outwards. They don't move much, but they keep the seam from being pulled apart.
-Once you've spread the case, there's another conection for the front LED that you'll have to pull apart. It'll likely be taped down, so be careful spreading the case to ensure that you don't damage it.
-Once that's out of the way, you slide the display through the bottom of the case. An extra set of hands at this point is helpful to keep the case from dragging on the screen and scratching it. Also, you need the thread the main cable through the hole in the back of the case....so the extra hands will help there as well.
-At this point, you're out of the case, so everything should be pretty obvious. You'll have full access to the LCD panel, the inverter board, the mainboard and the cabling. You'll have to do a bit more teardown to get at the backlights. I haven't gotten that far with one yet, but it look like it would be fairly straight forward.

Freakin · Apr 20th, 2009, 06:51 PM

I hope those instructions help. I couldn't find anything helpful except for a Korean site that showed the internals, but no tear-down instructions. I'll take pics if I open mine up again to replace the mainboard. I just put it back together the other day to clean up my desk.

I would imagine that the 20" and 30" would be assembled the same way. I can't confirm that though. My experience is just with the 23" aluminum model.

A1082 · Apr 21st, 2009, 02:20 PM

I'm looking for the inverter board 6632L-0146A, it's usually selling for $140 USD.

I could fix it, but spending whole day for find broken IC without schematics and without good working board as reference point, then chasing the chip/FET/etc on Internet will take weeks also...

Freakin · Apr 22nd, 2009, 09:39 AM

A1082, I just sent you a pm regarding your monitor.

A1082 · Jun 16th, 2009, 07:46 PM

I successfuly fixed my ACD what was dark and made 1short/1long/1short blinks.

I'll make pictures and post them here, but in short:
- replaced failed "1117-3.3SJ" LDO regulator [5V to 3.3V] located in a middle of main PCB.
This time I used slightly modified LM1086 what should handle max 1500 mA instead of 800 mA by original.

Amiga2000HD · Jun 17th, 2009, 03:32 PM

	Quote:			Originally Posted by A1082
	I successfuly fixed my ACD what was dark and made 1short/1long/1short blinks. I'll make pictures and post them here, but in short: - replaced failed "1117-3.3SJ" LDO regulator [5V to 3.3V] located in a middle of main PCB. This time I used slightly modified LM1086 what should handle max 1500 mA instead of 800 mA by original.

Nicely done - bringing back dead electronics by making parts substitutions and circuit board mods is a skill that very few people have.

A1082 · Jun 19th, 2009, 03:08 PM

I wouldn't say it require special skills.
Just do soldering and using filers - I did cut out metal tab and reduced a width of the big LM1086 to fit it instead of original LM1117.

I'm sorry for unfocused pictures - I relied to small LCD screen and didn't noticed that.

First one taken from working ACD, second - from my repaired ACD after I replaced the LM regulator.
If you will search for the the PCB board model - it is Q49C [V115 was for the monitors].

Freakin · Jun 19th, 2009, 03:18 PM

Very nice work. You're making wish that I held on to my ACD and waited until I had time to fix it. Oh well. Either way, well done.

Chas3 · Jun 19th, 2009, 04:09 PM

I would swap the casing from a decent 24" monitor made by another company, like dell.

A1082 · Jun 19th, 2009, 05:21 PM

	Quote:			Originally Posted by Freakin
	Very nice work. You're making wish that I held on to my ACD and waited until I had time to fix it. Oh well. Either way, well done.

Yeah, it's too late, but imagine if you did fix it for $1 what I paid for the LM1086.

BTW, I'm still in the 'business' - I bought from China ( before I got the working ACD for compare ) an inverter board ( new, around $80 delivered ), but it came as half working - only three CCFLs lite on; the seller keep silence after I wrote him a couple messages and posted pictures of half dark screen of good monitor after exchange the inverters. I don't want to eat the expenses ( adding to that, my original inverter still good ), so at least if I'll find what's wrong on the Chinese board and could fix it, I could sell it later.