Hi, I followed A1082's advice and replaced the Low voltage regulator in my 20" aluminium screen (A1081) and it now works perfectly.
The part needed for replacement without having to modify it is from Maplins and their code for it is: N58CA (the part is marked TS1086. The case type is TO-252 and it fits perfectly.
Many many thanks for your help Mr. A1082 dude, you are a proper genius.
Hi - as you may have read in my previous post (above) I had some troubles with a display cable too short to be connected to the logic board. Can you tell me if there was an extension from the connector coming out of the display to the logic board? Or did it fit together wothout any extension cable? It's just I'm curious Thanks.
i have a 23 cinema display as well. The monitor is not getting any power. the white LED isnt blinking or turning on. I dont have another display to test the power bricks output. is there anything i can test on the main board. all the caps on main board look good no bulging
I also have a dead display no lights . So you changed the transistor on a dead display and it worked?
Quote:
Originally Posted by nbmz
Hey guys,
Just to update, I also had a slew of 23"ACDs that were exhibiting the short-long-short flash; cutting the ground cable allowed the monitor to turn up without an issue. (some people were using paper/electrical tape on the center leads on the cable that powers the monitor to the brick, but I wanted something more permanent)
This fix worked on 2 monitors, and have been good to go for the last few weeks.
I had 2 other monitors that were completely dead, no lights flashing whatsoever. I've read thru this thread and ordered 2 of the transistors mentioned from digi-key to replace the original 1117-3.3v transistor with the new LM1086. I used wires to extend the transistor away from the board, as the case of the transistor was much larger. (I like A1082's idea of trimming the transistor....will try that!)
Anyway, bottom line, IT WORKS! I'm stunned, but it works a treat! Anyone that has a dead ACD 23" aluminum should try this out.
anyone help me out. i changed the transistor with no luck still no light. what voltages should i be getting if i read from the black and red wire inside the monitor?
I successfuly fixed my ACD what was dark and made 1short/1long/1short blinks.
I'll make pictures and post them here, but in short:
- replaced failed "1117-3.3SJ" LDO regulator [5V to 3.3V] located in a middle of main PCB.
This time I used slightly modified LM1086 what should handle max 1500 mA instead of 800 mA by original.
Thanks for your tip. I got an old monitor for 30$ and fixed it with a 3.3V voltage regulator (AS2815). Bit of work desoldering the power component, but the monitor works great......
I successfuly fixed my ACD what was dark and made 1short/1long/1short blinks.
I'll make pictures and post them here, but in short:
- replaced failed "1117-3.3SJ" LDO regulator [5V to 3.3V] located in a middle of main PCB.
This time I used slightly modified LM1086 what should handle max 1500 mA instead of 800 mA by original.
Add me to the list of people to thank A1082. I also used a 1086 to replace the 1117 voltage regulator & now the short/long/short problem is fixed - the display works fine.
The display wouldn't work with a 150W power supply.
I tried the 'pin blocking hack' with the 65W supply & the monitor worked - I did the 'pin block' when the monitor was open, just remove the J1 connector & reconnect the black & red wires the grey pin is the centre pin on the power connector so leave that disconnected. The display LED & side switch panel need to be connected when testing.
The voltage on on the output of the 1117 regulator was 4.2V (with & without the pin hack) so I replaced it & now the display works without the pin hack, USB & Firewire seem fine too. It is using the original power brick.
Thanks for all the useful links & excellent sleuthing A1082.
Anyone having trouble opening up the Cinema Display google for 'displayname service source manual' & eventually you will find the take apart guide, which is pretty helpful.
Sounds like I have a similar problem as several others. Lots of good info in this thread. I'm very happy to discover ehMac!
My 20" A1081 ACD sometimes goes black or blinks out then comes back on. But is always works OK when cool. Sometimes it has horizontal white static as the picture breaks up, then blacks out. I always try to shut down before the display stays completely black.
I was thinking my video card is at fault but it sounds like the same ACD problem as other people. I have read on this thread how to open the display case.
Does my problem sound like the same one cured by replacing the LM1117 part?
Thanks.
I'm stunned, but it works a treat! Anyone that has a dead ACD 23" aluminum should try this out. 
Linear Mode
